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Functions Of Clothing
Theory Of Hierarchy Of Human Needs
In his paper presented in 1943 titled ‘A Theory of Human Motivation‘. Abraham Maslow propounded what is now known as Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs explaining the factors behind human motivation and the hierarchical interrelationship among these factors. It explains human behavior by showing how humans deal with more basic needs before moving on to the next set of needs. This is also relevant for understanding the functions of clothing which addresses multiple human needs.
Clothing meets all the five basic human needs that are part of the pyramid of human needs conceived by Maslow. There are distinct functions of clothing that meet each of the indicated needs. The relationship between human needs and clothing functions are as follows:
Physiological Needs: Physiological needs are a prerequisite to human survival. Clothing protects people from natural climatic conditions such as freezing cold, extreme heat and heavy rain.
Safety Needs: Clothing and associated accessories also help overcome danger from enemies as well as other living organisms that pose a threat to human life. There are also protective clothing and accessories that safeguard human life from wars, toxic chemicals, biological agents and nuclear radiation.
Social Needs: The third level is not based on basic needs but instead on psychological or emotional needs. It is also referred to as the love and belonging stage and includes the need for interpersonal relationships and social connections such as friendships, love, social connectivity, group affiliations etc. When people express acceptance in receiving and giving gifts as a symbol of love and belonging, when consumers trust and follow fashion trends by purchasing and wearing clothes and accessories similar to that worn by friends and even strangers, it inducts and situates the individual within a social group/community.
Esteem Needs: This is classified into two categories – first is self-esteem in terms of dignity and achievement; second is the desire for respect from others in terms of status and prestige. The bride and bridegroom feel special by being the focus of attention in their wedding ensembles; a graduating student feels a sense of achievement in the convocation gown and cap; an army officer feels pride to receive medals, badges and stars that indicate rank; army and police personnel feel proud to wear their uniform.
Self-Actualization Needs: Individuals experience self-fulfillment when they attain personal growth which can be expressed in many ways including clothing that is in sync with an individual’s self-image and the consumption preferences regarding everyday clothing.
Protection And Comfort Function
Survival is a prime motivation of human life. In Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs, the physiological needs and safety concerns are primary and therefore placed at the base of the pyramid. Clothing is among the physiological needs necessary for survival as it is essential to protect human life from the vagaries of the seasons as well as natural and man-made dangers. The following are some of the specific ways in which clothing safeguards human life:
Protection From Weather Hazards: The human body has limits beyond which it cannot cope with the extremes of weather. Warm clothing worn in layers of innerwear and outerwear helps the body to withstand different levels of cold. People are able to live and work even at sub-zero temperatures using clothing that helps to keep the body warm. Specialized clothing such as the raincoat and accessories such as the hat and umbrella protect people from the rain.
Protection From Environmental Danger: There is a link between man and the environment. People need custom made clothing and accessories to avoid becoming victims of environmental danger. Clothes protect the body from insect bites, shoes protect the feet from dirt and the discomfort of walking over rough surfaces. Astronauts wear high technology space suits to survive in difficult atmospheric conditions. Surgeons wear surgical masks and gloves to keep the operation theatre sterile and prevent the patient from infection.
Protection From Occupational Hazards: Threats to human life and health from man-made products, machinery and systems have been increasing. In response, the clothing industry has been engaged in producing a variety of protective garments and accessories that shield people and particularly industrial and professional workers from occupational hazards such as bruises, cuts, burns, and other injuries. Advancements in technology have also helped the clothing industry to use fabrics and materials that are resistant to stains, contamination, corrosion from acids, fires, electrical current and radiation. Masks are made with advanced materials to help rescue workers to do their job even inside highly toxic environments. Hard hats, steel-toed shoes, and safety goggles have been part of the standard safety gear at construction sites and manufacturing plants. An array of sportswear accessories like compression sleeves, guards, anti-slip pads, back supports etc. are worn to protect the players from high impact injury.
Protection From Enemies: Traditionally legionary soldiers wore armor, helmets and carried shields to protect themselves from enemy attacks. Initially, these were made of leather or plant fiber or even animal bones and horns. But as swords and spears became stronger and heavier, soldiers needed sturdier protection. Metallic armor made of iron, brass and copper continued to dominate till gun powder and use of projectiles were introduced along with high power cannons and long-range guns. The search for alternative protective clothing that can withstand the increasing firepower of modern weaponry resulted in bulletproof vests. Some of the new types of protective clothing specially developed for modern warfare include nitrile that protects hands even inside liquid chemicals, Hazmat suits which safeguards people from hazardous substances like chemicals, biological agents and radioactive materials, and NBC suits which are to be worn in case of nuclear or biological warfare. Camouflage clothing reduces the visibility of soldiers and reconnaissance teams. As clothing cannot withstand the power of modern ballistic weapons, the focus has shifted to armored vehicles.
Identity Function
Identity is not only about the distinct nature of the dress but also the intention with which it is worn. Various civilizations also developed dress codes to distinguish among the different socioeconomic strata of society and other professions. There are distinctive cultural traditions in every society. Traditional dress expresses the wearer’s pride in their heritage. There are norms of clothing for the bride and groom at each ceremony at weddings. There are norms of austere clothing for funeral rituals. There are differences in dressing at religious and community-based events. Clothing practices addresses and satisfies the psychological need for a common feeling of identity and belonging to a community. It can even be an accessory or simply a tattoo that is symbolic of their common bond. Clothing has traditionally expressed ideas about the evolution of gender in terms of feminine and masculine appearance through various dress styles. It also expresses the deviation of individuals from the larger social group, thus contributing to the creation of subgroups.
Uniforms also play an important role in creating a new identity in lieu of their original which could have been very different. A soldier gains a new identity after joining a regiment by wearing a regimental uniform. This, in turn, creates and reinforces a new and strong bond of cooperation among the members of the concerned regiment replacing their original identity as civilians. The same psychological feeling of pride and belonging is also seen among uniformed professionals, particularly those belonging to the armed forces who treat their uniforms as a mark of the privilege of protecting the country and its people. Uniforms also help to distinguish people belonging to different professions. In a crowded place, the uniform of police personnel would visually signify a source of help. The same applies in a hospital where the uniforms and lab coats help to identify a doctor or nurse in case of a medical emergency. The same applies to a flight attendant, referee of games, or a member of the clergy.
In schools, the identity of students is established with the help of fabric colors, design, and manner of dressing with accessories such as emblems, badges and patches. Students may occasionally wear specific pieces of jewelry such as class rings on special occasions. Ceremonial garments worn on special occasions also create a sense of pride and belonging. The graduating students look forward to wearing convocation gowns and caps that indicate the successful completion of their studies. Members of religious organizations wear distinctive types of robes and symbolic accessories that are unique to them. Sportspersons who represent their country at international sports events take immense pride in wearing their country’s uniform. Fans of football clubs, cricket teams and other professional games also proudly wear the colors and the insignia of their favorite teams to signify their emotional allegiance.
Status And Prestige Function
Historically, clothes played a major role as a symbol of a person’s status. The kings and queens were the most elaborately and extravagantly dressed personalities with elaborate wardrobes for different occasions; others at the court could not replicate the royal robes. There were also decrees in several kingdoms that reserved certain types of dress only for a designated few and forbade all others from wearing such clothes thus creating a differential status quo [to maintain the social status]. In ancient Rome, only the senators were allowed to wear garments dyed with Tyrian purple, in Imperial China only the emperor could wear yellow robes, in traditional Hawaiian society, only the community chiefs could wear cloaks made of feathers. In earlier societies, people adorned themselves with fur, hide, nails or horns of their prey to proclaim their hunting prowess to others and assert their prestige within the community.
However, the rapid adoption of democratic forms of governance in recent times and the constitutional guarantee of the equality of rights has abolished all forms of dress codes for the common people. Mandatory dress codes with clear differentiation of status are seen only in the uniforms of the armed forces. Service stripes on a military sleeve, merit badges on a Boy Scout’s shirt, as well as the captain’s band worn by a sports person, indeed add to their status.
While vestiges of the traditional dress codes among a number of village communities still exist, the more dominant form of differentiation in status is between the rich and poor. Clothes convey the status and prestige of the wearer by signifying the culture, economic status, and social power. Thus it becomes a powerful pointer of social relations and enforces class differences. Expensive clothes are associated with the rich and the powerful. The rich are willing to pay more for designer fashion labels, popular logos, and expensive jewelry to demonstrate their prestige, higher socio-economic status, and peer approval. Both the clothes and the wearer receive recognition and social acceptance to exclusive high society events.
Ornamental And Aesthetic Function
While the adornment theory explains the human inclination towards beauty, aesthetics deter us from the experience of viewing unaesthetic objects. The psychological association between poverty and lack of elegance results in ignoring those whose sense of dressing may not appeal to urban aesthetic sensibilities. The following are some of the ways in which clothing performs its aesthetic function:
Design: Design is the fundamental activity of designers to create new and innovative products including apparel. Good design balances the elements and principles of design to complement the wearer’s body. This emphasizes the positive physical attributes of the person and creates a good impression on the onlookers.
Surface Ornamentation: Surface ornamentation gives value addition to fabrics through weaving and handcrafted techniques such as embroidery, dyeing and printing applied on finished fabrics or dresses to help enhance the aesthetic appeal of the clothing.
Accessories: Accessories are coordinated to complement the aesthetic appeal of clothing and complete the look and direct attention towards the wearer. Jewelry, wristwatches, shoes, bags and make-up are the accessories that maximize the impact of the dress. Even uniforms are designed with two versions – one that is worn on a daily basis and the other with additional accessories for use during ceremonial occasions.
Sociability And Conformity Function
People generally have a need for love and belonging as they also fear isolation. Clothes can indirectly generate identification with a group or community through the performance of sociability and attraction:
Indigenous Clothing: Traditional clothing engenders the feeling of belonging to a community. Indigenous dressing is also useful in displaying one’s cultural identity.
Conformity Dressing: People express loyalty to their community by adhering to its unwritten yet implicit dress codes.
Uniforms: Regimented dressing instils a feeling of belonging and camaraderie with the concerned group. Uniforms also announce the professional identity of the wearer and forges a bond with the other similarly-dressed people in the group.
Special Occasion Clothing: When a special occasion requires people to dress formally, it generates a sense of social belonging and social behavior. Dressing inappropriate attire for a convocation or wedding ceremony emphasizes the significance of social participation and makes the occasion memorable.
Self-Expression And Actualization Function
In Maslow’s hierarchy of human needs, self-expression and actualization are placed at the top of the pyramid. Self-actualization, according to Maslow, represents the growth of an individual towards self-growth, gaining knowledge, and seeking a deeper meaning of life. In Maslow’s view, the need for self-actualization distinct from other needs. While the physiological, safety, social and esteem functions address the basic motives, the self-actualization function addresses higher motives to develop an integrated personality. For example, the physiological need for protection arises from the inability of our body to withstand weather hazards such as cold, heat or rain or to go without food and water for long periods. Self-actualization, on the other hand, may be about concerns about the environmental impact of increasing consumerism. Thus Maslow’s description of self-actualizing people delineates an ideal of human character.
Those who seek self-actualization, tend to use their dressing as a way to express their individuality and to communicate their core message with others. Self-expression and actualization is expressed through clothing such as a simple robe with distinctive appeal. The following are some of the important ways in which clothing can serve our growing needs.
Acceptance Of Self, Others And Nature: This is one of the basic requirements of self-actualization – food, sleep and air. This translates into wearing comfortable clothes without making any attempt to conceal the flaws in the body or body-shaming others.
Reliance On Own Experiences And Judgement: This implies that one’s own clothing choices can be made without the influence of other people or extraneous factors.
Spontaneous And Natural: Spontaneity and being true to one’s own nature entails making a choice of how one prefers to appear and not what others’ expectations..
Task Centered: Self-actualization implies that humans have a higher mission that is beyond the self and that the clothing style would be in sync with this mission.
Autonomy: Self-actualization demands that freedom from reliance on external authority or other people. This implies that you would buy clothes with your own resources and also focus on earning the resources that are needed.
Continued Renewal Of Appreciation: This is about the need for self-esteem, self-respect, and positive feelings derived from admiration. In terms of clothing, this requires the renewal of appreciation of their qualities without experiencing boredom or deeming them obsolete.
Profound Interpersonal Relationships: The value for meaningful relationships expresses itself through respect and understanding for others. This may translate into ‘Slow Fashion‘ where a limited quantity of clothes are made with care for the slow handmade processes and respect for artisanal knowledge and skills.
Socially Compassionate: Sensitivity and empathy for wider society could be expressed through clothes that are responsibly made with concern for society, without environmental degradation.
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