Fashion Design: Theories Of The Origin Of Clothing

Table of Contents

Modesty Theory

The modesty of a woman refers to her dressing or behaving in a way so as to avoid impropriety or indecency, and especially to avoid attracting sexual attention. As a function of dress, modesty is concerned with the concealing of oneself and the body. Followers of the Modesty theory propose that morality is dependent upon modesty. In other words, modesty is a way to overcome the feeling of shame associated with exposure of the body and therefore seeks its concealment through clothing. The attribute of demureness determines how people dress. However, the Modesty theory has been refuted by other theorists with different viewpoints. Some suggest that modesty arises out of self-consciousness regarding one’s imperfect body and to defend against negative body image. The Social Norm theorists argue that modesty does not arise from shame but from the need for self-propriety and privacy, and that the socio-cultural environment, as well as norms of strictness or permissiveness in society influences the codes of decency regarding body covering. Others opine that modesty is not instinctive but is learned or imposed; the concept depends on variables such as religion, culture, age, place, activity, social status, and personal preferences. This points to the fact that modesty may have different connotations in different cultures. Questions pertaining to modesty such as how much skin can be revealed or concealed form the focus of studies on media and celebrity culture.

Historically, the concept of modesty has not been stagnant except for consistent norms that are rooted in religious faith. What is considered modest in one community may not be a necessary co-relate to modesty in others. Early paintings and statuettes across different civilizations often depict both men and women with bare bodies. Clothing served an important function in the display of social status where the extent of the covered body could convey social status as free citizens or slaves. For example during the Roman Empire, marital status was indicated with married women wearing long dresses that completely covered the body.

From a fashion perspective, the Modesty theory has had two distinct expressions. First, is the socio-cultural, political, and religious norms of clothing in some countries that have also played a role in defining modesty. In some civilizations, the veiling of faces indicated status – women of the class were required to wear veils, while others were not allowed to do so. In Iran, wearing the hijab was banned in 1936 but it was made mandatory in 1979. The growing market for modest fashion which is currently estimated to be worth over $400 billion is for the cosmopolitan consumer who wants coverage in accordance with her faith but with style. The other expression of the modesty theory is women’s clothing in public life including the workplace. In the Victorian era in England, the length of dresses and skirts was prescribed for women and children. Women and girls of 16 years and above were required to wear skirts where hemlines skirts reached below the ankles. During World War II, rationing of clothes was imposed, for example, the skirts of the women’s Utility Suits were standardized to knee length. Requirements of the workplace also had a major role in the emergence of power suits in the 1980s. As women began to occupy more and more executive positions in corporate management, they preferred dresses that reflected authority along with modesty and did not in any way objectify women. Power dressing has brought in full-length suits and knee-length skirts whose necklines revealed nothing but the collarbones.

Immodesty Theory

The history of civilization shows that both modest and immodest clothes have coexisted. The Immodesty theory recognizes the basic instinct of human beings to arouse the sexual interest of the opposite sex and proposes that clothing is worn for this purpose. Human history has evidence that even before leather or vegetation-based clothing was worn, the body was painted and accessorized with colorful feathers to draw the attention of the opposite sex. This behavior may have been learned by watching the colorful display of plumage that some species of birds used for attracting mates. The Immodesty theory argues that the impact of trying to attract the attention of the opposite sex can be maximized by adopting a clever combination of hiding and revealing tactics through provocative clothing as a sexual tool to highlight private parts of the body. The psychology underlying the immodesty theory is that familiarity breeds indifference while concealment breeds interest.

Immodest dressing has been focused on drawing the attention of the onlooker to the shape of certain specific parts of the body:

- Upper Torso [Chest/Breasts].
- Waists.
- Hips.
- Buttocks.
- Legs.
- Arms.
- Height.

Body posture also impacts the appearance and the way in which the clothes conceal and reveal the body. Immodest dressing has also been subject to the shift in emphasis on the particular zone of the body. For example, though short hemlines that revealed a bit of leg were fashionable in the 1920s, lengthened hemlines that highlighted the body silhouette [body outline] were the trend in the 1930s. The 1940s were dominated by structured shoulders and shorter hemlines, while longer skirts with small waistlines and accentuated busts typified the 1950’s. In the 1960s, the immodest dressing was associated with the growing clamor for women’s liberation expressed through the mini-skirt. Immodest clothes became a way to challenge clothing restrictions on women. The popularity of midriff-baring cropped tops of the 1980s, slip dresses of the 1990s, low-rise jeans of the 2000s, and the bold fashion of the contemporary music stars are considered to be examples of immodest dressing.

However, perceptions about immodesty differ widely from community to community as well as from person to person. Some of the major factors that account for the differences in the perception about immodesty include the following:

- Situational Factors: Attitude towards immodest clothing has been historically conditioned both by societal norms and the individual’s personal disposition towards sexuality.

- Religious Faith: Historically, religious teachings have had a bearing on the community’s views on immodesty.

- Psychological Factors: People’s psychological inclination towards pleasing oneself or pleasing others have had an impact on their wearing of immodest clothes.

- Physiological Factors: Differences in anatomical proportions even among people wearing the same kind of clothes also play a role in reflecting immodesty.

- Physical And Psychological Comfort Factor: While some people are comfortable wearing different types of clothes including those that may be perceived as immodest, there are others who may be uncomfortable in wearing immodest clothes.

Adornment Theory

The Adornment theory emphasizes the fact that human beings began to adorn themselves even before they started wearing clothes as we know them now. The desire for adornment is considered to be natural and instinctive, motivated by the desire to feel good about oneself and to appear attractive to others. The aesthetic value of beauty is enhanced by the other embedded qualities such as amiability which appears to be welcoming and therefore attractive. The essence of adornment is the positive emotional reaction in the wearer and on the viewer.

The Adornment theory also reflects a holistic approach to fashion. Its scope extends beyond clothing to encompass accessories and cosmetics to create an integrated fashion appeal. While the Modesty theory aims at demureness, and the Immodesty theory aims at sexual attraction, the Adornment theory focuses on enhancing beauty and makes use of all elements and principles to enhance the aesthetic impact of appearance.

This theory emphasizes that adornment also draws inspiration from nature and emulates it. Designers draw inspiration from nature and develop abstractions in the form of decoration. Design involves colors, textures, and the use of various materials for adornment. Adornment through creative interpretations of surface ornamentation on textiles for clothing and home décor is the basis of important activity in the fashion industry known as fashion forecasting. Fashion designers incorporate aspects of tradition and modernity for fabric development, processing, and garment production. Different embellishment techniques are used to raise the adornment quotient of the collection which include traditional surface treatments such as dyeing and printing, embroidery, beadwork, lacework, and several other fabric manipulation techniques. Addition of accessories is also an important way of enhancing the adornment value of fashion. Historically, adornment was not confined to dress and accessories. Three different methods of body adornment have become an integral part of contemporary fashion as well. These are:

Body Modification

Historical examples of body modification include several examples. First is the now-abolished practice of Chinese foot binding for artificially creating tiny lotus feet; second is wearing of large circular lip plates by the Kichepo women in Sudan who consider themselves undressed without their lip plates, and third is the tradition of artificially elongating the necks of girls with a series of brass rings around the neck in the Paduang tribe also known as Kayans. The same concept is reflected in modern society through cosmetic surgery procedures.

Tattooing

Traditionally body tattooing was used by different tribes for creating distinct identity marks for the tribe as well as the rank held by the person within the tribe. Examples include tattooing by the Thracians to indicate rank, the elaborate facial tattoos as marks of distinction and esteem of the Maoris of New Zealand, and the tradition of body tattooing which holds symbolic meaning for the Japanese Yakuza. In contemporary society, tattooing has become a fairly widespread fashion statement among the youth.

Body Painting

Historically body painting and face painting have been part of rituals. For example, girls in some Congolese tribes oil themselves and apply red camwood powder in order to look more attractive. Royal ladies of some ancient Chinese dynasties as well as Japanese geisha girls applied heavy face make-up highlighted with the powder of ground rice and white lead. Although body or face painting is now limited mainly to sports fans and participants in religious rituals, the underlying concept provides the foundation for the entire beauty and cosmetics industry.

The norms of beauty held by a culture may be different from that of other cultures. The desirability and significance of specific decorations is determined by the traditions and values of indigenous cultures. In some regions, people decorate their bodies with paint and ornaments every day or on occasion. Bodies may be ritually scarred, bound for adornment, and decorated with tattoos and piercings. People may wear necklaces made of animal teeth, shells, or seeds.

Protection Theory

The Protection theory is closely related to the origin of clothing. Although the early human beings who lived in warmer climatic zones did not require added protection to their body, those who moved away from Africa and migrated into the Northern hemisphere needed to cover their body particularly to protect themselves from the freezing temperatures. Early human beings who lived in colder climates used available materials from the surroundings to protect themselves from the vagaries of weather including cold, heat, and rain as well as hazards of insect or snake bites. The raw materials included remnants of fur and skin of the hunted animals as well as vegetation that they learned to process as bark cloth, and even fibers from rain or river-washed plants. The problems that they faced in using these materials would have prompted them to look for better ways of using them as external cover for their body.

Clothing has also served as camouflage during warfare. The experience of using more effective body coverings gave them the opportunity to think of other ways of protecting themselves. It gave rise to the development of different kinds of armor that was helpful in fending off enemy attacks by sword or spear. As technology developed and warfare became more mechanized, protective uniforms for combat were made for protecting soldiers from the impact of bullets.

Fashion Design: Origin And History
Fashion Design: Functions Of Clothing
Fashion Design: Indian Clothing In First Half Of The 20th Century
Fashion Design: Indian Fashion In The Second Half Of The 20th Century
Fashion Concepts